It’s important to note that many banjo players recommend leaving truss rod adjustments to professionals or someone experienced with banjo setup. I guess it’s a case of getting used to the action as I’m not quite sure how to shim the neck safely myself and it might create some fret buzz if I do. steve davis - Posted - 01/02/2010: 18:39:02. Because adjusting the neck angle on a banjo with a dowel stick can be more involved, it’s usually recommended that an expert handle any adjustments needed. You can always sand it down more, but there’s not much you can do if you take too much off. Because this is a more drastic step which can’t be undone, I would recommend enlisting the help of an expert for this. The truss rod is a metal rod that goes through the neck of most banjos as well as other stringed instruments. For every post telling you what to change and how, there’s a dozen telling you that that’s the last thing you want to do. The bridge has a lot to do with an instrument’s tone and volume, and you may decide to replace yours in order to get another sound quality. Holding the Allen wrench in the side hole to keep the rod in place, use a wrench (usually a 1/2″ or you can use an adjustable wrench) to loosen or tighten the nuts on the end of the rod, To raise the action: loosen the outside nut and tighten the inside nut, To lower the action: loosen the inside nut and tighten the outside nut. Since this will be a permanent change, only someone with experience should attempt this. In most banjos, the truss rod can be adjusted by removing the cover on the top of the peghead and tightening the nut to decrease the neck bow or loosening the nut to increase it. Coordinator rods (also called rim rods) can also be used to adjust the banjo’s action by changing the neck angle. Someone who doesn’t strike the strings as hard will not need as high of an action to achieve this. That was wrong. Before getting into the details of how the proper action is achieved, let’s look at why someone might prefer a different amount of action than someone else. File the heel where the neck and body meet and adjust the neck angle that way. Start small as you’re learning and pay attention to how the adjustments you make effect, not only the action but the other elements, such as tone and sound quality. I enjoy playing the acoustic guitar and ukulele on a regular basis. Hi everyone, I have a set-up question for fellow banjo players with more experience than me with vintage instruments. B. 2.3mm doesn’t sound too far out of whack to me. Too high and your intonation fret to fret is effected as well. Reverand hit all the same points and tips I was going to suggest very well. If you’re not sure which method is best, or you’re not confident that you’re doing it right, get help. Adjusting the action on a coordinator rod banjo is simple compared to banjos with a dowel stick. There are all kinds of resources available nowadays: Once you gain more experience and have gone through the setup process, you will understand better and be more comfortable making the adjustments yourself. Remember to stick with small changes, turning the nut just a little bit at a time – no more than a quarter turn at a time. I own several old banjos (by old I mean 20’s and 30’s) but they are high quality instruments and have straight necks. Here are the most common warnings given about each aspect of adjusting a banjo’s action: The bridge is a good place to start for beginners because it’s the safest adjustment to make. You’ll also understand better how the action of the instrument either helps or hinders the playability and sound of the instrument. If your banjo doesn’t have a truss rod, there won’t be anything you can do for a bowing neck. The string should form a straight line. Electric guitar action is a lot lower than the average banjo action. However, some local “experts” told me my banjo “buzzed” because they played very hard. Hi everyone, I have a set-up question for fellow banjo players with more experience than me with vintage instruments. So I usually adjust the action to just a bit higher than "perfect", so it has a bit of room for error. Intonation at certain frets was a bit dodgy at first but a new set of strings seems to have cleared that up. A head with less tension is going to allow the bridge to sink in a bit, resulting in lower action. Keep in mind that getting the balance just right is going to take some trial and error, especially if you’re new to this. As one of the most important aspects of a banjo setup, action can have a huge impact on the instrument’s playability. Check the bow (curvature) of your banjo's neck. string action, and you either have strings laying on the frets or more likely, the action is way too high. In theory, you should only have to set up your banjo’s action when you first get the banjo. While a banjo’s action setup varies according to preference, a very general rule of thumb is that there should be about 1/8″ (3.175mm) gap between the strings and the 12th fret. If this is the case with your banjo, it’s a good idea to let a professional handle it. Below are the factors that most directly affect a banjo’s action and how to adjust them. On the other hand, if the action’s too low, pushing the strings against one fret will cause them to vibrate against the lower frets when played, creating an annoying buzzing sound. If they are too high, the notches in the nut need to be cut deeper. Because it directly impacts the way the banjo neck rests against the pot, it can have a drastic effect on the banjo’s sound quality. For me, the action should be as low as possible without allowing buzz if I push it a bit. The action on my Epihpone banjo at the 12th fret is 3/16", which I didn't think was that big of a deal until I played a more expensive banjo at a store and was floored by how much easier it was to play on that one. This is often the case in cheaper banjos or banjos that are designed without them. I tore the banjo apart completely to clean it when I was putting a new head on it recently, and when it got put back together, the action was lower somehow, and I had to take the shim out. " Action can vary, depending upon how hard the player strikes his strings, but the height at the 12th fret is usually no lower than 1/8" and no higher than 1/4", with the average falling at 3/16". And the new head is actually on a bit tighter than the old head, so in theory it should have raised the action a bit). The standard height on a banjo’s bridge is 5/8″ (15.875mm), although other heights are available. This can happen if the co-rod has been cranked too tight. Put a capo on at the first fret, and playa few songs. I’ll be putting a new head on soon and cleaning it all up inside (it was really dusty when I bought it) so I’ll try out a very fine shim at the same time just to take down the action a hair. That being said, here are the basics. link to Banjolele vs. Banjolin: Do You Know the Difference?
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